1940s shirt dress revisited

1940s red shirt dress

I always wondered why, with all the patterns in the world, would I ever make one twice? In the case of my peasant tops, here and here, I can only say it was because they were dead easy and required little brainpower, perfect for a late night sew. But in the case of this dress, the rationale was purely because I’ve never had a dress I feel so at home in! I had in my head, that I was a simple shift dress girl but actually I think I’m more of a shirt-dress girl!

1940s red shirt dress

Without the association of the pattern, I wonder if anyone would guess it dated back to the 1940s? Do you think it’s obvious? Or have I been looking at vintage patterns for so long now, I think they are the norm?! Perhaps if I were to style it with appropriate accessories: hat, bag and gloves, it might give the game away, but – dressed traditionally sporting wellies and a brolly – I think it also crosses over as a modern shirt dress too.

I’d like to tell you what this fabric is but I have no idea! It’s red and it’s 100% cotton for sure. Kind of like a cheesecloth seersucker but not, and vaguely reminiscent of my candlewick beadspread I had as a child… without the little soft threads that pulled out oh-so satisfyingly easily! I thought it might be ribbed cotton. I’ve heard that mentioned before but I really haven’t a clue. It was kindly donated to me by a friend who desperately needed to get rid of a big bag of fabric… I could never be like that! And I knew what ‘the red’ was destined for immediately.

1940s shirt dress detail

It came together sweetly as before with the addition of a few minor changes. I added a third button just because I love the little ‘targets’ and two didn’t showcase them enough. They cost Β£2.45 for six, bought at the London Vintage Fashion, Textiles and Accessories Fair, September 2011 and I think they are vey happy on this dress!

target button detail

I made it an extra inch longer, but really could have gone for 2 inches… oooh, I am getting brave in my old age!

length of skirt

I also added an extra inch around the midriff, knowing the struggle I have to get the dress on, over my head and judging by the photos of the last dress, it does look a bit snug. But it was highly unnecessary on this version. The mystery fabric, unlike the shoe fabric, has a lot more give and resulted in little poofy bits at the sides. I put it on the mannequin and looked at it for a few days, wondering if I could get away with it. I probably could have done, but it would have annoyed the hell out of me!

dress before alteration

And so… I sensibly turned the dress inside out and chalked and basted where I wanted the new line of stitching to be. Namely half an inch in from the original seam, starting from just above the waist, in a straight line up to the armscye. I tried it on again and was much happier with the silhouette.

Dutifully, I removed the basting and unpicked the topstitching where the midriff meets the bodice. I sewed the new side seams on the bodice over the chalkines. Sewed the new side seam on the right side of the midriff section and trimmed the left side opening to match (where the zipper goes).

I must be getting better at this. I would never have had the patience to do that a few years ago! But it was of course, worth it and now I am a happier bunny!

Here is a picture of the zip in the side seam. Once I’d sewn one size of the zipper in place, I made sure to make chalk marks where the midriff needed to line up. I pinned the second side of the zip to those marks first and then pinned the rest. Worked like a treat!

zipper detail

I opted for longer sleeves this time. Not full length, just three quarters. Mr Ooobop! thinks they will annoy me being so fitted and I have a little tendency to agree but I wanted to see how it affected the overall look.

I’m intrigied by the construction of the sleeve with darts to shape the lower arm. I guess this is a vintage thing because, to date, I have not come across these in a modern pattern.

vintage sleeve darts

Allowing for adjustments, this dress did seem to take longer than the first. About 5 evenings after work, spread over a couple of weeks. I have been really keen to see it finished but not so keen that I wanted to rush it and ruin it! And in any case I had to wait for Mr Ooobop! to be around to do his usual photo magic . . . and for the sun to come out! Well, we gave up waiting for the sunshine!

1940s red dress in the rain

I’m sure that this little revisitation wont be the last but I do have an incredibly long list of other ‘wannamakes’ to tend to first, so its back into the envelope and into the box ’til next time!

Do you like to revisit a favourite pattern or do you prefer to try something new every time?

back of dress

butterick 2638

42 Replies to “1940s shirt dress revisited”

  1. So many wonderful things here! The dress itself is perfection and those buttons were made to go with it. I love the way everything comes together – the dotty wellies that go with your dotty buttons, the Hello Kitty brolly, the red, white and black of the outfit combined with the dramatic streak in your hair. And, of course, as ever – the wondrous photography. I’m not surprised you made this again. It’s such a delight. I love that fabric – what a freebie!

    1. Thanks everso, Karen. I have to say the wellies and the brolly were the last accessories I had hoped to style with this dress. But it worked just the same! x

  2. Love it just as much as the first one, I really like the fact that there are diffeerences between the two and that they aren’t carbon copies of each other. And of course, the fabric and buttons are right up my street! It’s just lovely Janene. X

    1. Thank you Jane. Nuts that Im making long sleeve dresses in July, let alone styling them such as this but hey ho! Thought you might like the buttons πŸ˜‰ x

  3. Really lovely, its such a great, flattering shape, I love the pointed midriff band. Its great to feel confident with a pattern, I have been finding that lately too.

    1. Thank you sewbusylizzy. I would be careful what you wish for. We wished for it so we could end the ‘hosepipe ban’ and look what happened! It’s July for goodness sakes!

  4. That’s gorgeous! The fabric, the buttons and all the styling with wellies and brolly… looks fantastic. I frequently re-make patterns that work well, sometimes too often. :s

    1. Thanks Anne. It feels lovely on too. I guess you would learn more by remaking a garment, fitting and finishing, than if you make new stuff each time. πŸ™‚

  5. I hope Mr Oobop serenaded you with a jazzy version of Lady in Red (that Chris de Burgh is such a schmultzer πŸ™‚ ) It is fabulous, just like you πŸ™‚

  6. I love your shirtdress – the buttons are perfect, and I’m a big fan of those triple elbow darts! Those gumboots (oops, wellies!) are fun too!
    I totally related to your comment about shift dresses and shirt dresses – I’ve always been a shift dress person, but made a similar dress to yours last year and wear it all the time. It is starting to fade because it has been washed so many times, and yes I will be making another!

  7. What a perfect dress. It could easily live in my wardrobe, minus the tie at the back. My teen dresses from the 70s all had tie backs and somehow I don’t want to go back there.

    1. Thank you Gail. lol, I love a big tie back. This one’s a little subtle for my liking. But I know what you mean about terrible teen fashion issues. I’m not so sure I could return to pink denim flared dungarees!!!! Or should I never say never?!!!

  8. OH my goodness is this fantastic or is this fantastic? IT’S FANTASTIC! It fits you so beautifully, and it’s just so flattering, the tie, the midrift panel, I just want to wear this all over the place. It’s. Awesome.

    I make stuff over and over again, I can’t help it, I’m a repeat offender.

  9. Love this! You look gorgeous, as usual! πŸ™‚ While there are a billion patterns I want to try making, I think the idea of having a few favourites that are just “YOU” that you can make up again and again, is a very comforting and special idea reserved for the sewists of the world – you can make it with different sleeves, a different colour, fabric, or length and no one would be the wiser πŸ˜‰ Plus, once your favourite eventually wears out… well you can just make it again! πŸ™‚

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