cowl – ooobop

June 15, 2018September 27, 2018

Pattern-free cowl skirt in African wax fabric

I’m pretty sure I once said I’d never make clothes for anyone else. But owing to my rubbish memory I now seem to be making a habit of it!

Lucy is one of my beautiful returning customers. and I love the challenges she throws my way. It seems I’m happy making things for other people so long as they are not boring things, lol!

Lucy has a way more interesting social life than me and loves pinning her favourite styles on Pinterest for future reference. It’s a great way for us to share the possibilities of what she’d like me to make next. Most of what she pins, slightly terrifies me but I already overcame my fear of sewing trousers by making her a jumpsuit (which you can see here). She was so delighted with the outcome and that spurred me on to investigate the method of making a cowl skirt.

I’d seen them before, but couldn’t for the life of me work out how to set about it until I came across this tutorial on YouTube by Ruralafricanshop.

It’s a pattern-free tutorial that transforms a length of fabric like magic! Thank you Ruralafrican shop!

I set about making one for myself first. You know, just to test the waters (*read, because I really wanted one too!) and the great thing about sewing with African wax fabric is that it is so darned cheap you can afford to toile it and make one out of the same bolt. Which is clearly the best thing to do in order to see the results for real.

I found me some red and black, of course. It’s quite an unusual colour palette among the wax cotton shelves it seems. Everything else under the sun but not much red and black without other colour interference. I just love the sunbursts. It’s got a great graphic feel about it. And totes lends itself to this crazy sculpture of a skirt!

It cuts some pretty cool shapes with one little turn here and there:

It looks so elegant from the back.

And does it’s finest heart-shape impression in the wind!

The trial was a success. I added a few refinements to the instructions, re neatening seams, interfacing the waistband and inserting an invisible zip on a centre back seam. And I rehearsed using different lengths of fabric to see the difference in length of the skirt. The pleats were formed by eye rather than maths.

Lucy supplied her own fabric which was the chosen fabric for the event. And it was a little bit lighter than what I’d used so the pleats and the drape worked even better the second time around. And the border on the fabric worked beautifully on the waistband.

She is far taller and way more leggy than me so I made sure the length was appropriate, and warned of the shortness of the front seam!

To be fair, she’d rock a potato sack but still, what joy to see her wearing another ooobop special… I was chuffed to bits when she sent me these photos!

I’m not stopping here. African wax fabric is such a pleasure to sew. And I’m ready for my next challenge. Bring on the party!

Other things I’ve made from African wax fabric:

Jumpsuit and baby dress

Self-drafted wax print dress

July 30, 2013May 25, 2015

ooobop! review: Burda Style August 2013

Well hello August Burdastyle Mag with 16 Free Patterns. So very pleased to receive you!

This month veers completely away from the beach and heads into Autumn with a whole range of styles. Heaven knows how the Burda team keeps it up each month. It’s as much as I can do to come up with one style that I wan’t to actually make!

Neo Romantic a la Downton Abbey, makes a dramatic entrance with chiffon and ruffles. Very reminiscent too of my 80s New Romantic phase. I’d have killed for a neck ruffle like that back then… and actually maybe now! Don’t ask me about the Michael Jacksonesque lace blouse though. I actually don’t have words. But I did use to have a dress very similar to that white one, top right. Though mine didn’t look like I was wearing pants over the top!

The lace dress in the centre is lined with silk. A fitted bodice and three quarter length sleeves make for a very special dress indeed. I don’t reckon I could carry off the Hong Kong Phooey look, alongside, though.

Bottom row left corner, coat is a very simple but stylish design and I might have considered it had I not have accidentally on purpose purchased a good looking coat pattern just recently 😉

I like the pinafore dress though. Very much. But it’s odd that the chiffon sleeves are joined on. I would defo leave them out and have the option to wear my own blouse under or not.

And that jacket, bottom right is really cute. I would defo have worn that in the 80s and I might be persuaded now. Leather puffy sleeves or not!

Described as having graphic inspiration from the 20s, I get an 80s vibe too from this next section: Form and Style. I don’t dislike anything from this section, I just don’t think it’s my thing. It’s a bit too ‘blocky’ and casual for me. I’m aware that it’s completely away from my colour palette (kidding myself I actually have one) and as much as I try and envisage the styles in a teal or a red or a black or an orange, it’s still not working for me. The skirt, top row centre, is quite interesting though.

And then enter the Style Icons!

Swinging London, rock ‘n’ roll meets bohemia. Now that’s very much more up my street.

I have had a blouse like the first one on my list for such a long time but the leopard print chiffon brings it up a line or two. I love the idea of leather drainpipes but might have to rein myself in a bit there! The jacket top centre is a very sleek chic sort and there’s a great step by step tute included for this one too.

Check out that cape! Kind of commands a big floppy brimmed hat to carry off the whole dramatic look and I might be inclined to add a pair of thigh high leather platform boots. (Woahhh…..there I go again!)

One of these days I will run up a maxi. I’m sure I won’t look back. I love the whole floaty nature of them but I just can’t seem to get going on one. Too busy eyeing up the leather pants and fitted jacket look! (bottom right)

Am I just fickle or is the next ‘All in Red’ section the best? Am I blinded by one of my favourite colours or are all of these styles indeed strong, sophisticated and stylish, red or not?

Ok, ‘all’ might be a bit of an exaggeration. The peplum is still hanging around. Just to annoy me. I got vaguely interested in creating something with a peplum at the beginning of the year. I toyed with it in my head and for whatever reason, now it just really annoys me. There is a ridiculous amount of volume in the front of this one too. I don’t need that kind of volume placement, I can tell you!

But I do like everything else. That gorgeous dress top left is made of washed silk. Red washed silk! So cool and soft and luxurious. I love that massive bow. But I dislike the pockets. I think they are too much for a fabric so delicate.

Red silk velvet for the dress 3rd one along top. I would make the front opening a tad more discreet but I do love an empire waistline. The collar stands higher at the front than at the back and again I love the three quarter length sleeves. Teamed with some 60 derniers and some Docs, I would be happy as some Larrys in that cheeky little number!

The coat is lovely but not as lovely as mine! 😉

The jacket bottom and bottom right is the one that has a supporting step by step tute. Such a versatile shape. Teamed with strides or a skirt. Dressed up or down. But properly bringing some class each time.

No little retro number for me to harp over this issue but there is a special Designer Style a la Wolfgang Joop. I had a ‘quick’ Google of the Wunderkind label and was pleasantly surprised. This dress pattern, though tamer than most of the dramatic styles I saw, is an attention seeker nonetheless. (Would be even moreso in red!) And oh how I love that style of fashion drawing. Going to teach myself how to draw like that one day.

But it’s the Plus Fashion section that captures some fine vintage styling for me. I love all the styles apart from the crazy wide cut silk trousers. It would take someone special to carry them off. I’m getting closer in my quest to grade patterns, having just dipped my toe in with my latest dress. So I’m taking more notice of the bigger sizes with the hope that one day my grading skills will be enough to start with any size and make it fit me just so!

And so the Children section wraps up this issue. But not in such an uber dramatic way. The coat is lovely but Little Miss Ooobop didn’t look overly impressed. And both of us agree that the skirt looks more like a sewing fail than anything else! I’m sure the T-shirt pattern will come in handy at some point but hey. I’m not complaining. I could do without a small person adding more to my list!

Any faves? Any already made up? Do tell. x

July 5, 2013

ooobop! review: Burda Style July 2013

Just when you thought I’d forgotten all about you! So sorry for the really really late review. I’ve had this issue in my clutches for quite some time and I’m sure most of you have snapped one up and made up your entire summer wardrobe in the meantime. But for those faraway friends who always get the bum end of the deal when it comes to Burdas on shelves, this post is dedicated to you.

Celebrating Summer is the opening theme for July. So get your sunnies on because there is nothing shy or wallflower-like about these there garments.

Cotton, jersey and linen. Bold prints, floral and batiks… all a little bit hippy for me, to be honest, but for any beginners looking for some dramatic starter projects, a few of these could well be worth a punt.

The dress, bottom right corner, for instance is fashioned from a rectangle of fabric with single slit. You can just about see the diagram to the right of the dress. There are some nifty instructions to wear this dress in three genius ways with the help of a circular bangle. But, easy as it states, I haven’t quite got my head around it enough to explain, I’m afraid!

My hippy tendencies, however, do extend to love of tipi!

The next section gets a bit more versatile. The opening shorts and silk vest top with twisted straps brings a little sophistication to some interesting casual wear. Not sure what to make of the pink wool and leather-trimmed shirt dress (centre) with oversized bellow pockets. I already don’t like the puckering around the waist! But the cowl neck on the jersey satin top (centre right) is so classy as is the soft wool jacket (bottom left corner) with its silk trim and pocket flaps. Really interesting asymmetric closure too.

I wasn’t immediately bowled over by the retro pattern. But on closer inspection those shorts are really cute with their angled hip yoke pockets, waist pleats and turn-ups. I’d really like to give these a go before my holiday, if I get a chance. The T-shirt though a useful pattern to have, is a little boring really but far more intriguing is the use of fabric here. It’s made of striped raffia! Can’t imagine that’s a snuggly wear!

It lightens up somewhat with shimmering silks, floaty tulle and pearly sequins. My pick of the set is that silk batiste with ruffle appliqué jacket (bottom left corner). Short, boxy cut and properly unnecessary! Which is why I love it so much! I quite like the deep v-neck top (centre bottom) but I wouldn’t sew with that sequin fabric for all the silk in china!

Included in this section are some more of those genius wrap dresses. The top one shows another two ways to wear the one shown previously. Beach dress becomes evening dress with clever usage of a bangle!

The one below has two side slits and makes such a great beach dress. No bangle involved here, the fabric piece is simply draped around the body.

Some lovely lingerie patterns included in this issue. I’ve made a couple of pairs of pin-up pants but I really want to explore the world of undies in more detail. I’m tempted to rustle up a couple of slips too as a cheats way of avoiding a lining!

I love the French knickers and the camisole tops. And imagine how luxurious they would feel in silk crepe satin…

But hey. Guess what section tops it all off, once again? You guessed it!

Bolder, shapelier, sexier and far more likely to appear in my holiday suitcase. Check out that all-red stretch satin halter neck dress (top left corner). Sparkly rhinestones cover a small gathered section under the bust. Soooo flattering. Loving the red lace dress (next to the halter dress) with three-quarter length sleeves too. (I do like a red dress!) I’m not entirely sold on the use of asymmetric darts though. Looks to me like a mistake.

And wow! That purple cowl-neck dress (3rd column first row) sports a cowl to behold. Its made of a double layer of silk jersey, here. I anticipate a nightmare sewing scenario but if anyone wants to make this for me, I’d be happy to receive!

From the lack of reviews on this issue along with the odd very negative ones, I gather this hasn’t been the most popular. I have to admit, it took a few going-back-to’s to get a fair impression but as always, if there’s only one pattern that hits the mark it’s still so worth the cover price. So stick with it lovely sewists!